The Making of a Pea Coat

Jacob "Daddy" Pepin | Fidelity's Sample Maker for 35+ years.

Jacob “Daddy” Pepin | Fidelity’s Sample Maker for 35+ years.

 

Jacob Pepin, fondly known as “Daddy” around the factory, has been making samples and small batches of coats for Fidelity Sportswear in his studio above the offices for over 35 years.  He has truly mastered his craft and we were thrilled when he agreed to let us shadow him for a day and a half in his workspace to see exactly what goes into the making of each Fidelity garment.  In this instance, Jacob is constructing four women’s pea coats in maroon for one of our favorite stores, Art in the Age.

 

ROLL

Jacob begins by rolling out a bolt of 24 oz Wool Melton fabric on his work table.  On top of this, he places a large sheet of white paper with the pattern work, a detailed drawing that outlines exactly what shape each piece of the coat should be.

 

FabricRoll

 

CUT

Once the fabric and pattern work is laid out, Jacob begins to cut out each piece.  Depending on the design, a single garment can have up to 40 pieces.  Thankfully, Jacob only has about 30 pieces to cut for this one.

 

Cutting3

 

SEW

With the final design in sight, Jacob begins sewing each of the pieces together.  He starts with the pockets because they are the most time consuming.

 

SewingPocket

 

Then he moves on to the large pieces and works his way down to the collar and sleeve tabs.

 

Pea Coat collar in progress.

Pea Coat collar in progress.

Shells

 

 

Once he has the wool shells assembled, he moves on to the lining.

 

Lining

 

Once the lining is done, he begins to sew (inside out) the lining to the shell.

 

As side glimpse for the shell, lining and wool fusible all being sewn together.

 

FLIP

When the lining is finally sewn into the shell, Jacob flips the garment so it is right side out again.

 

Flip

It’s tough work flipping the sleeves…

 

FINISH

Jacob finishes the garment off and sends it to the button machine.

 

Button Machine

Lewis Button Machine. See how it works here!

 

PRESS

Finally, each garment is pressed to perfection.

 

DSC_3349

 

There you go!  The making of a Fidelity garment!

 

Many thanks to Art in the Age for their aw14 order.  You can purchase these very coats in their store this fall/winter.  Please visit their website for more info!